Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

Warning: These Pants May Be Hazardous To Your Health

…because they’re a pair of smokin’ hot cigarette pants, that’s why! Okay, I am very, very sorry for that terrible joke (well, not really, I think it’s hilarious), let’s move right along. What we have here is a pair of super chic pants from the pattern in Gertie Sews Vintage Casual, in vintage wool from my great-grandmother.  Aren’t they snazzy? ๐Ÿ˜€

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

This is the latest piece in my quest for a (largely) me-made placement wardrobe. While I own a few pars of “nice” trousers, I’ve never really particularly cared for any of them. Since becoming more enlightened on my personal style preferences, I’ve been able to figure out why: I like my pants high-waisted, tailored and with a gently tapered leg – little wonder the mid-rise, vagurly shapeless straight cut ones I owned weren’t really doing anything for me! I’ve also never cared particularly for black pants; I think it’s the poly-type fabric they always seem to be made out of, which really doesn’t do it for me. So when my grandmother passed on this gorgeous length of wool my great-grandmother had bought to me, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it!

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

I quite like this pattern, I have to say. They came together very quickly and easily, with the zip, waist facing and hems easily the most time-consuming parts (much like last week’s pencil skirt!). These were constructed almost entirely on my new-old vintage Singer machine, which seemed to love sewing this gorgeous wool almost as much as I did. The only parts I did on the Janome were the zip (because invisible zips were not a thing back when my Singer was born!), and the waistband, because I really couldn’t be bothered changing the thread back over. The hems were hand blind stitched again – a technique I think I’m really starting to get the hang of now. And there is something very soothing about a bit of hand-sewing every now and then ๐Ÿ™‚

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

One thing which did vaguely annoy me was the confusion about the fabric recommendations in the instructions. I first read the “Supplies” section, as would seem logical, and was met with a variety of suggestions that included “light-weight wools, denim, stretch wovns, double knits”. Figuring my fabric, which was a) wool and b) light-weight, was sufficiently compatible, I set to cutting quite happily. Then I start reading the instructions properly and come across “I designed this pattern with stretch fabrics in mind…” !! I decided to forge ahead: Gertie recommends adding 3mm of ease to each seam to compensate for zero-stretch fabric, and I decided I could simply sew them up with smaller seam allowances. But when I basted the pants together and try them on, they were too big! I ended up sewing them completely with the normal 1.5 cm seam allowance. So I think she is using stretch as a fairly generous term here: the amount of give you get from a twill, say, is probably enough. A bit of a pain, but still, no pants were harmed in the making of this pattern so I won’t complain too much ๐Ÿ˜›

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

Two features I really do love about this pattern: the pockets and the back zip. Pockets are obviously always great, especially for work-wear, but I especially love the look of the slanted pockets here – I do appreciate a good functional design feature! I think this may also be the first time I’ve owned a pair of dress pants with functional pockets (me-made pants: 1; RTW pants: 0). I think the back zip is pretty flash because it gives such a smooth clean look to the front. I quite prefer this nice flat finish to the look of a fly – they always seems to spread open and show the zip, or bubble up in odd ways – and no buttons to dig in when you sit down! I also like how the invisible zip sneakily matches the stripes in the wool ๐Ÿ™‚

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

Overall, a success I think! I’m very happy to add such a fun and flattering pair of pants to my placement wardrobe, especially seeing as they’re still quite neutral and work well with a lot of my existing tops ๐Ÿ™‚ I’m definitely keen to sew them up again (and thus slowly edge out the RTW pants…) – I think I could even tolerate a black pair, in a nice soft wool (DEATH TO THE YUCKY POLY STUFF). I’m also thinking of possible casual styles – I have a couple of pairs of floral jeans which I love, but don’t wear as much now because they’re a little big – but how cool would these look in a floral-print twill or some such?? Very.

Pin-Up Stripe Cigarette Pants

So, I think my lower half has been taken care of (for now) – now it’s time for some shirt-making endeavours, methinks! Stay tuned ๐Ÿ˜‰

Until next time,

Miss Maddy xx

 

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14 comments

  1. sianhannahthomas · March 1, 2016

    I just sewed these cigarette trousers too – great minds! Mine were a denim version, but I ADORE your wool ones, they look so good! Your invisible zip looks spot on – it was my first time doing one and I was so pleased it actually turned out well. Did you find the instructions on the pockets/side seam parts a little confusing at all or was that just me?! There was one illustration that just didn’t seem to fit with the others and really threw me until I figured out it was actually pretty simple ๐Ÿ˜€

    Liked by 1 person

    • Miss Maddy · March 2, 2016

      I saw yours! Hadn’t got round to commenting yet but they look absolutely fantastic ๐Ÿ™‚ and YES the pocket instruction were super unclear – I think I know the picture you’re talking about haha. But hey, we got there in the end – with some pretty fab results ๐Ÿ˜‰

      Like

  2. Michelle · March 1, 2016

    Love cigarette pants, and they’re so flattering on you! I agree, hand sewing can be very relaxing. I’ve never understood why it gets such a bad reputation. Now, having said that, I’d hate to sew a wardrobe all by hand. Love your pants, Maddy!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Miss Maddy · March 2, 2016

      Thanks Michelle! I can’t wait to make more, I have so many versions I want to make ๐Ÿ˜€ I quite agree, hand sewing is enjoyable – but I don’t think I’d ever let it replace machine sewing class completely!!

      Like

  3. Sofรญa · March 1, 2016

    So pretty!! I love the look of cigarette pants, they’re so chic and sleek! (Well, I must admit that I wear jeans 90% of the time, but I recognise a good pair of cigarette pants when I see them!) ๐Ÿ˜›
    And your grandmother’s fabric stash seems to be like fabric Wonderland, you always find the most amazing fabrics there! This wool is perfect for this style of pants, and I love the matching orange zip. Those little details really make a difference! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Liked by 1 person

    • Miss Maddy · March 2, 2016

      Thanks Sofรญa! It’s a pretty incredible stash, I’m lucky she’s so generous with it – and that I’m the only other seamstress in the family and no one else raids it! ๐Ÿ˜‰

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  4. Colesworth · March 1, 2016

    fabulous pants, I love that they are made on a vintage singer from fabric passed down the generations :o) Hoping to make something similar in stretch denim soon.

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  5. Emma @ A Hand Stitched Life · March 1, 2016

    These are amazing Maddy! I’m all for finding your style and going for it. I’m working on finding what I actually want to make and wear and not just making something for the sake of making it anymore. I’m going to have to get my hands on a copy of this book, you make amazing things from it ๐Ÿ™‚

    Liked by 1 person

    • Miss Maddy · March 2, 2016

      Thanks Emma ๐Ÿ™‚ I’m definitely getting better at sewing clothes I’ll wear now – Lincraft sale skirt has been worn at least once a week since I finished it! I’d definitely recommend Gertie’s books, I love the patterns and all the variations – I can’t wait to get my hands on the new one!

      Like

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  7. poppykettle · March 26, 2016

    Death indeed to the black poly rtw stuff. Horrible things. Good on you for stepping into pants territory too! I’ve dabbled but still haven’t reached the point of having something I’d regularly wear. Love the colour and pattern of your wool ๐Ÿ™‚

    Liked by 1 person

    • Miss Maddy · March 30, 2016

      Thanks so much! I never used to like wearing pants in the workplace but I’ve definitely been converted now! ๐Ÿ™‚

      Liked by 1 person

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